[carysue]

Hello,

I have put in several bathrooms and am quite handy with plumbing, however, I have never installed a bathroom in the basement with a septic system. I am aware that I need to install a pump , I would like to know the best product line for this task and the best approach?

Thank you

Cary

[massplumber2008]

I am a big fan of the zoeller sump pump/sewage ejector system for these bathrooms. There are quite a few different approaches to basement bathrooms but I think zoeller makes the best.

Here , large basin is set into floor and pipes are run under concrete floor to give a very normal looking bathroom (no fixtures have to be placed on platform to drain to anything). This is a popular pump with very few issues over years of using it.

You could also install an above the floor system that uses a zoeller pump as well, but here you will need to build up the floor at least 6 inches to accommodate the pump basin and if you want to add a shower may even need to build higher platform... also a good system.. no chopping/digging/patching... and same great system.

One more typ is a macerator system... one name brand is the sni-flo system... also no chopping/digging of floor.. and toilet sits right on floor like normal plumbing, but will need to build a platform if you intend to install a shower.

All systems have their benefit... but best in my opinion is the ejector pump in the basin underground... almost knowone will know it is on a pump. Can easily research these by typing brand names given into google/yahoo, etc.
If you have more questions... let us know!

If my answer helped... please RATE THE ANSWER below. Thank you.

[massplumber2008]

Agreed... did I answer most of your questions.. If not... ask away!

[carysue]

Hi Massplumber2008

Now that I have found the unite (Little Giant # LGSMPK) that I believe would do the job, I do have other questions!

1. Does the waste from the basement bathroom pour into the 30 gallon basin and then the sewage ejector pump sends it up into the out-take towards the septic tank? (Just like a sump pump with ground water) How does this not smell? Is this a closed (Sealed) environment that the sewage ejector pump sites in? OH Please let it be so!
2. Will there be instructions on installing the unit (I have looked on the Internet for installation requirements and I have not found what I need (Residential applications)
3. Electrical requirements (15 amp 110) or (30 amp 220)?
4. Site preparation; depth of hole? I am guessing that the hole that the 30 gallon basin sits in should be back filled with concrete around the basin, so that seepage of ground water does not accrue.
5. Through the illustration that is supplied on the web site (PlumbingWorld.com) it looks as though the intake to the sewage ejector pump is the standard 3" abs black piping?
6. The out flow is a 2" abs black piping, which has the gate valve, check valve and union as shown in the illustration?
7. Does the vent tie into the venting that the existing upstairs is attached to, or is there a new vent that is installed below grade that would tie into the septic tank. (I already have additional venting installed on the septic tank)
8. I also had a filter installed on the pipe poring into the septic tank, will this cause a problem?
9. Will the rough-in be the same as a bathroom above grade? i.e. that all 2" will tie into the 3" before heading to the sewage ejector pump?

Thank you for your time on this mater

Cary

[massplumber2008]

Hi carysue:

1) Yes... waste pumps up and out of GAS-TITE/SEALED 30 gallon basin into the main sewer drain line that goes to the septic (even the electrical cord has a special rubber grommet that seals around it).

2) There will definitely be instructions with the unit.

3) I believe a 20 amp, 120 volt receptacle is acceptable (I would run a separate circuit for this pump AND install it on a GFIC (ground fault interrupter circuit... like the ones next to your sinks if your electrical is relatively up to date).

4) Depth of basin... I usually dig down a couple inches lower than the unit and place a bed of crushed rock at the base to level the basin on. The idea here is to make the basin cover flush with the finished concrete floor (can be slightly higher if necessary.. will not hurt anything if high... lower than finish floor and concrete will fall over cover.. so don't go lower!).

NOW... backfill should be of crushed rock or just place the good dirt back into the hole around the basin.. NO BIG ROCKS back in pit. Fill to within 3-4 inches of the top of basin. It is this 3 or 4 inch depth that you will fill with concrete to finish.

5) The waste inlet to the basin may be 3 or 4 inch... but does not matter... if 4" you will just need to bush down to 3 inch pipe size (a 4"x 3" flush bushing should do the trick).

6) The outlet of the sewage ejector is indeed 2"... all you said is correct... gate valve, check valve and union.. BUT PLEASE NOTE that all sewage ejectors I have ever installed require a 5/32" hole be drilled into the 2 inch pipe under the cover about 12" above the pump outlet so that the ejector line does not get "air locked" and fail to operate properly... so check your installation instructions for this!!

7) The vent comes out the top of the ejector and should terminate by itself up into the attic and through the roof... OR... some inspectors will allow you to tie this vent in at the attic just before the main house vent penetrates the roof. BUT PLEASE NOTE HERE that the plumbing waste and vent system for your plumbing in the basement must not connect in any way into the ejector pump vent (unless inspector allows you to tie in at attic as mentioned). SO.. no vent underground for ejector system... but vents underground for toilet/tub, etc..

8) I am not clear on 8... a filter on what... a sewer drain line..? Let me know as much as you can on this so I can re-post.. ok?

9) Yes, plumbing rules don't change much for underground... except you should have cleanouts (called dandy cleanouts or test tees) as you come out of the ground. As an example you will probably run 2" wet vent for lavatory (2" all the way to attic).. here, you would come out of floor and add the cleanout about 6 inches off floor (faced away from finish bath, but accessible in other room if possible) before picking up lavatory waste with a 2"x 1.5" Tee fitting... and going off 2" to other vents/to attic, etc.

*Whew* so there... back to you... let me know as you go!! Good luck!

[carysue]

Hi massplumber
Thank you so much, I believe you have taken most of my fear away with the unknown. I will keep in touch and give you updates for sure and if I stumble I hope you don't mind if I ask a bit more? I think this site is pretty nifty by the way. To answer you query on number 8. When we bought our home 2 years this coming August, we had the septic tank inspected and was advised at the time to install a filter that fits over the pipe that enters the tank from the house. We were told that it would prevent solids from entering the tank and then moving on to the filed (not the bio-degradable kind of solids) I think the cost was about $250.00 but to be sure I would have to go and look it up, If you would like to know more about it I can see what I have on it and pass it along the next time we chat.

Thank you for the time that you have taken on my behalf.

Cary

Hi carysue:

1) Yes...waste pumps up and out of GAS-TITE/SEALED 30 gallon basin into the main sewer drain line that goes to the septic (even the electrical cord has a special rubber grommet that seals around it).

2) There will definitely be instructions with the unit.

3) I believe a 20 amp, 120 volt receptacle is acceptable (I would run a separate circuit for this pump AND install it on a GFIC (ground fault interrupter circuit...like the ones next to your sinks if your electrical is relatively up to date).

4) Depth of basin...I usually dig down a couple inches lower than the unit and place a bed of crushed rock at the base to level the basin on. The idea here is to make the basin cover flush with the finished concrete floor (can be slightly higher if necessary..will not hurt anything if high....lower than finish floor and concrete will fall over cover..so don't go lower!).

NOW...backfill should be of crushed rock or just place the good dirt back into the hole around the basin..NO BIG ROCKS back in pit. Fill to within 3-4 inches of the top of basin. It is this 3 or 4 inch depth that you will fill with concrete to finish.

5) The waste inlet to the basin may be 3 or 4 inch...but does not matter...if 4" you will just need to bush down to 3 inch pipe size (a 4"x 3" flush bushing should do the trick).

6) The outlet of the sewage ejector is indeed 2"...all you said is correct...gate valve, check valve and union ..BUT PLEASE NOTE that all sewage ejectors I have ever installed require a 5/32" hole be drilled into the 2 inch pipe under the cover about 12" above the pump outlet so that the ejector line does not get "air locked" and fail to operate properly...so check your installation instructions for this!!!

7) The vent comes out the top of the ejector and should terminate by itself up into the attic and through the roof...OR...some inspectors will allow you to tie this vent in at the attic just before the main house vent penetrates the roof. BUT PLEASE NOTE HERE that the plumbing waste and vent system for your plumbing in the basement must not connect in any way into the ejector pump vent (unless inspector allows you to tie in at attic as mentioned). SO..no vent underground for ejector system...but vents underground for toilet/tub, etc..

8) I am not clear on 8...a filter on what...a sewer drain line..???? Let me know as much as you can on this so I can re-post..ok??

9) Yes, plumbing rules don't change much for underground...except you should have cleanouts (called dandy cleanouts or test tees) as you come out of the ground. As an example you will probably run 2" wet vent for lavatory (2" all the way to attic)..here, you would come out of floor and add the cleanout about 6 inches off floor (faced away from finish bath, but accessible in other room if possible) before picking up lavatory waste with a 2"x 1.5" Tee fitting...and going off 2" to other vents/to attic, etc.

*Whew* so there...back to you...let me know as you go!!! Good luck!!

[massplumber2008]

Ask away... anytime! Good luck