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    bland's Avatar
    bland Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Sep 9, 2008, 02:04 PM
    John Deere L110 won't move after starting
    I too have a John Deere Lawnmower L110 that will start but will not move. I read another that had the same problem but the answer was an obvious one and one that we have tried, pushing the rod in. I have looked at all the belts and they are in tact. I have no idea what is wrong. I hestiate to go to the dealership for I read another person's forum who said that the dealership could find nothing wrong but as soon as they got home, it did it again. I don't have money to waste. Does anyone really know about this lawnmower? I really need help.

    Thanks!
    esquire1's Avatar
    esquire1 Posts: 2,483, Reputation: 209
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    #2

    Sep 9, 2008, 03:33 PM
    Are you sure the tow valve rod is connected to the lever on the transmision? Have you had a wheel off and failed to replace the key that locks the wheel to the shaft? Are you sure the drive belt is around the pulleys? Just things to check
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
    		  
    #3

    Sep 11, 2008, 11:47 AM
    Most common among the L110 is the belt coming off the input sheave of the transmission. The wheel key was a good one if you had a rear wheel off. Otherwise look in above the right rear tire at the belt and sheave. It will usually be above the sheave and below the fan. It is also possible to reach in and check the tension. If not under tension and on the sheave, something is preventing the machine from coming out of the park brake position. I did not say anything about the dump valve because that seems known.
    Peace,
    crigby
    Solarrigger2000's Avatar
    Solarrigger2000 Posts: 62, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
    		  
    #4

    Sep 12, 2008, 05:22 PM
    Had this probel on my lt 150 run it at full trottle with the accelerator fully depressed for me it eventually clicked in and haven't had the problem since.
    -SR2K
    Kadlecken's Avatar
    Kadlecken Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    May 12, 2009, 11:15 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by crigby View Post
    Most common among the L110 is the belt coming off the input sheave of the transmission. The wheel key was a good one if you had a rear wheel off. Otherwise look in above the right rear tire at the belt and sheave. It will usually be above the sheave and below the fan. It is also possible to reach in and check the tension. If not under tension and on the sheave, something is preventing the machine from coming out of the park brake position. I did not say anything about the dump valve because that seems known.
    Peace,
    crigby
    I have had the back wheel off but only saw a washer and a clip that held the wheel on. What does the wheel key look like.
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
    		  
    #6

    May 12, 2009, 02:43 PM

    Hi,
    It is a piece of 3/16" square key stock that is about 2" long. Normally there is a washer that goes on before the wheel, then the wheel, then spin the wheel until the half-square area in it lines up with the same in the axle, push in the key, then the outer washer and clip.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    Kbore's Avatar
    Kbore Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #7

    Apr 12, 2011, 06:10 PM
    I Fixed the problem on my L110: There are 2 idler pullys that tension the drive belt (not the deck drive, but the rear wheel wheel drive)- one of them (rear most idler) was frozen, preventing the belt from engaging- the belt just spun on the idler pully- I smelled a little burning rubber at first.

    GX20286 REAR IDLER $9.97 Time to replace: 10 minutes


    http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePa geServlet?search=model&model=L110
    CJl110's Avatar
    CJl110 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #8

    Apr 24, 2012, 06:07 PM
    Just had the same problem. The smell of burning rubber lead to the seized small drive pulley ( not on the cutting deck) . Almost needed a new belt. As mentioned before $10 easy fix!!
    kahunaking's Avatar
    kahunaking Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #9

    Jul 5, 2012, 06:45 PM
    The wheel key is a 3/16" x 2" metal piece and it goes into that groove you see on the rim and the main shaft. I found this out just today while helping my grandfather take the rear wheel off and we thought we lost the key until we found it stuck in the rim.
    Dry Heaves's Avatar
    Dry Heaves Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Mar 30, 2013, 11:46 AM
    This might be a little obvious, but the belt can slip off the small pulley immediately under the engine. Look at it over the right front tire. Careful. It would be easy to crush a finger if you are putting it back on by hand.
    rmacatsodak's Avatar
    rmacatsodak Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #11

    Jul 1, 2014, 08:55 PM
    Thank you, Thank you, crigby. I never saw the wheel key because the slot was pointed down. After fixing a leak in the rear tire and remounting the wheel, my new toy was broken. I didn't think I had done anything wrong after just 6 1/2 hours. I thought it was the sealed transmission and I worried about this all day long. I don't have a truck or a trailer and live 50 miles from the nearest service center. I found the wheel key in the dirt after reading your post and the problem was solved. Thanks one more time.
    OldDog66's Avatar
    OldDog66 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #12

    Aug 11, 2017, 01:25 PM
    Awesome, mine quit moving and the belt had come off the drive pulley. Should have thought of it myself, my walk behind has done it several times.

    Thanks for the post,
    Grady
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