Hi:

I'm not sure if this is the correct forum so please excuse me.

I replaced the burner infinite switch (from Sears) on my Kenmore electric stovetop two months ago since turning it on was not heating the coil (the red power light would not come on). But after that, everything was working fine. We have been cooking on that heating coil element since then, but yesterday while my wife was cooking using a non-stick pan, suddenly sparks started coming out of the heating coil element. My wife quickly turned off the burner switch and the sparks stopped.

When I inspected the hetaing coil element, I could see severe damage and there was melted metal on the floor where the sparks touched the floor. Even the bottom of the non-stick pan was damaged. I removed the heating coil element and haven't used it. Two things to note:

1. The burner socket for that particular heating coil element was replaced by the earlier seller. I know that because I can see the new socket connected to the old wires using connectors.
2. The other three heating coil elements work fine which is what we are using for our cooking.

Please tell me what's going on. Did I wire the infinte switch incorrectly, but then why am I seeing the problem after two months? Is the entire electric stovetop unsafe for use?

Thanks,
K

You did right by turning off and later removing element. That element, and probably socket, need to replaced, but not before you check on connections backwards to ensure previous owner failed to make secure connection on that wiring. It appears the connection was faulty or element just failed and time to replace that element.

Hi:

I'm not sure if this is the correct forum so please excuse me.

I replaced the burner infinite switch (from Sears) on my Kenmore electric stovetop two months ago since turning it on was not heating the coil (the red power light would not come on). But after that, everything was working fine. We have been cooking on that heating coil element since then, but yesterday while my wife was cooking using a non-stick pan, suddenly sparks started coming out of the heating coil element. My wife quickly turned off the burner switch and the sparks stopped.

When I inspected the hetaing coil element, I could see severe damage and there was melted metal on the floor where the sparks touched the floor. Even the bottom of the non-stick pan was damaged. I removed the heating coil element and haven't used it. Two things to note:

1. The burner socket for that particular heating coil element was replaced by the earlier seller. I know that because I can see the new socket connected to the old wires using connectors.
2. The other three heating coil elements work fine which is what we are using for our cooking.

Please tell me what's going on. Did I wire the infinte switch incorrectly, but then why am I seeing the problem after two months? Is the entire electric stovetop unsafe for use?

Thanks,
K

I agree with the previous posted completely. The most important thing on electric stoves is the wire connections. Many times not only do the copper wires get stiff/brittle and or the high temperature insulation that is used as a jacket over that wire starts to fall apart. I always carried extra high temperature wires and some good quality connection ends so as to make a long lasting repair. I would replace both the heat element and the wiring block since they are cheap and I am sure you only want to visit this repair one more time so make this repair perfect. NOTE: while you are getting some supplies try to find some porcelain wire nuts of the size that will allow you to splice the burner wires you can use good old idea or other brands but they are plastic and not as good as the other.

The red indicator light is usually plugged into one of the infinite electric control tabs so see if you can find it or just look on one of the other controls as to where it goes since that part should all be the same.

The reason the burner shorted out is because of all the wear on the top of the burner form moving the pot or skillets around. This makes the encapsulate metal around the burner wear thin on the top and allows the burner to short through the pot or skillet causing damage to both items. Good luck on your project.

Thank you very much for the replies. I will defintely replace the burner and the socket.

Hi!

Update! I tried replacing the burner socket and the heating element, but no luck! I went to HD and bought the following for my Sears/Kenmore electric stovetop:

• Burner socket

• Heating Element

I followed the directions in this YouTube video: Range/Stove/Oven Repair- Replacing the Surface Burner Receptacle (Whirlpool Part # 12001676) - YouTube. I wasn't able to get porcelain wire connectors so I am using the plastic ones that came with the burner socket.

When I turn on the burner switch, the red light comes on but the heating element just does not get hot. My other 8-inch element had stopped working years ago and I never bothered to fix it, so I tried to fix that as well by replacing the burner socket and used the old heating element. Same results: the red light comes on, but the heating element doesn't heat at all! What am I doing wrong? The wires of the previous burner sockets that the previous owner had replaced were soldered as opposed to me using wire connectors for the socket that I am replacing. Other than that, I would expect this to be a simple job!

Now I only have the two 6-inch ones working. Any help before my wife talks me into calling a technician? :-)

Thanks,
K

try this video= Stove and Oven Help : How to Repair an Electric Coil Cooktop - YouTube

you either have a bad connection or improperly wired stove from previous owner... compare circuits that work with bad... there has to be something that is NOT connected correctly

walt