Check out some similar questions!

smdurham22 · Sep 28, 2007, 01:16 PM

Good Afternoon,

I have a 1995 Honda Civic that will not start. I have tested the main relay, tested for spark, and checked the main relay wiring harness. I plan on replacing the main relay regardless as the car has approximately 145,000 miles on it and it has not been replaced. The cap and rotor look fine they are around 40,000 miles old. I pulled the spark plugs and the feel dry, but I do here the fuel pump kick on and the fuel system pressurize. I tested the ECU as well, but the one issue I have with the ECU is that initially when I jumpered the diagnostic wires the CEL stayed on. After I tested some of the other items I went back to the ECU and I received the following error codes: 6; 10; 20. After testing the wiring harness I hooked the battery up and tested the ECU one more time, now I am getting the error code 19. I think the ECU might just be shot. Other note is that the ignition switch can be a bit sticky at times.

I do not want to start replacing everything and get nowhere, but my plan right now is to start with the ECU and main relay.

Am I on the right track or is there something else I should do? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Stephen

TxGreaseMonkey · Sep 28, 2007, 01:25 PM

. Run through the tests outlined in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Be sure to perform the K-Test on the ECM. Like you, I suspect the ECM is bad. Also, be sure and check all under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Clean main ECM ground on the thermostat housing.

smdurham22 · Sep 29, 2007, 05:09 PM

Okay still struggling.

I went through the tests. The CEL goes off after two seconds. I replaced the main relay, coil, plugs, wires, cap + rotor, and fuel filter.

The "K-test" was fine. I have exactly five volts at the MAP sensor and five volts between D19 and D21.

I have spark at the plugs though I am not really sure how to tell if it is enough spark. I have a tester that flashes when the spark goes through the wire and it does this for all four wires.

I have not tested the fuel pressure which I am doing tomorrow (have to buy a pressure gauge). But I do know that I have fuel up to the regulator as it came out when I changed the fuel filter.

I tested all fuses with a test light and they are fine. I have power at the ICM wires but I am not quite sure how to go about these two steps:

5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM. (I did disconnect the tach to see if it would start but no luck)

Since the ECM passes the K-Test I am not really sure if that can be the problem. I do know that a few weeks ago my girlfriend took her car in for an oil change and she go the "fuel system flush" done. I wonder if this broke some crud loose in the tank and clogged the pressure regulator.

I am not too worried about replacing the ICM and the fuel-regulator or even the ECU at that point. The car has been great for years and I would like it to stay that way and not have to worry about it starting.

Thanks,
Stephen

TxGreaseMonkey · Sep 29, 2007, 06:05 PM

Good job of running through the tests. Based on your results, I'm inclined to suspect a problem with the distributor; e.g. a bad CKP, CYL, or TDC sensor. None of these sensors are serviceable. Ideally, try and substitute a known-good distributor. Most Honda distributors fail between 75,000 and 120,000 miles. Another possibility is just a bad ICM. If you don't want to replace this component outright, have AutoZone test it for free on their Well's Machine. I recommend that it be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. You can have spark, but the plugs may not be firing at the proper time. This can be due to faulty distributor sensors or the ICM not operating properly when the ECM wants it to.

The only problem with what I said above is I'm still perplexed by the assortment of DTCs you first reported. It may indicate problems in other areas of the ECM. Be sure to clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat and recheck for DTCs. You may also want to remove the cover of the ECM and look for leaking capacitors, crazed processors, or anything else that looks abnormal.

fozzbo · Oct 3, 2007, 12:04 PM

Hello New here!

I am having the same problem! Same car! Now to compound matters it will now not turn over. Once I figure out if the neutral start switch or ignition switch is the culprit I can get back to the no start problem.

Any suggestions for a tried and true neutral start switch test? Which pins should I hook the tester leads to?

Stephen - did you get your car running?

-Shawn

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 3, 2007, 12:25 PM

fozzbo, the problem being with the neutral start switch is not likely--I've never seen one go bad. First, try the suggestions on the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

fozzbo · Oct 3, 2007, 01:52 PM

"6. In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead, or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring."

I got the starter to operate by following the above procedure. How do I now determine if it is the neutral switch or Ignition switch that is bad? Perplexing.

-fozzbo

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 3, 2007, 02:46 PM

Use an automotive test light to check for power, when the ignition switch is in the crank position. Check for power through the switch. If power does not pass through the switch, it needs to be replaced. If no power is present, the ignition switch is bad and needs replacing.

fozzbo · Oct 10, 2007, 08:41 AM

TGM -

Crank problem corrected (loose connection inside engine firewall).

I did the K test (passed), I have spark, fuel pressure, pulled main replay and re-soldered connections at posts, coil tests OK, will test igniter tonight.
However -- I have no pulse to the fuel injector. Does the igniter control the pulse to the injectors or does that come from the CPS/TDC sensor in distributor sending a signal to ECU. If so how do I isolate the issue to CPS/TDC or ECU?

-fozzbo

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 10, 2007, 12:24 PM

Provide me the answers to the 3 basic diagnostic questions.

fozzbo · Oct 10, 2007, 03:19 PM

1. The CEL goes off after 2 seconds
2. The main relay clicks after 2 seconds
3. The fuel pump runs during that time and I have proper pressure at the injectors.

(5.0v on the K test)

-fozzbo

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 10, 2007, 05:27 PM

. Check for codes.
. Test/replace the ICM.
. I suspect you have a problem with the sensors inside the distributor, which are not serviceable. Try substituting a known-good distributor.

fozzbo · Oct 11, 2007, 10:39 AM

All sensors in distributor tested at ~350 ohms...

Brand New distributor on order...

Still planning to get coil and igniter tested...

Will update results when I get it in...

-fozzbo

choppahguy71 · Oct 11, 2007, 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by smdurham22

Good Afternoon,

I have a 1995 Honda Civic that will not start. I have tested the main relay, tested for spark, and checked the main relay wiring harness. I plan on replacing the main relay regardless as the car has approximately 145,000 miles on it and it has not been replaced. The cap and rotor look fine they are around 40,000 miles old. I pulled the spark plugs and the feel dry, but I do here the fuel pump kick on and the fuel system pressurize. I tested the ECU as well, but the one issue I have with the ECU is that initially when I jumpered the diagnostic wires the CEL stayed on. After I tested some of the other items I went back to the ECU and I received the following error codes: 6; 10; 20. After testing the wiring harness I hooked the battery up and tested the ECU one more time, now I am getting the error code 19. I think the ECU might just be shot. Other note is that the ignition switch can be a bit sticky at times.

I do not want to start replacing everything and get nowhere, but my plan right now is to start with the ECU and main relay.

Am I on the right track or is there something else I should do? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Stephen

Main relay is the key,tap on it lightly while cranking and see if there is a change.keep in mind that the distributors have been known failures over the years.a visual chech inside dist. for rust/orange dust my reveal your problem but main relay is most probable cause.

Z-Mann · Oct 15, 2007, 10:27 AM

Originally Posted by smdurham22

Good Afternoon,

I have a 1995 Honda Civic that will not start. I have tested the main relay, tested for spark, and checked the main relay wiring harness. I plan on replacing the main relay regardless as the car has approximately 145,000 miles on it and it has not been replaced. The cap and rotor look fine they are around 40,000 miles old. I pulled the spark plugs and the feel dry, but I do here the fuel pump kick on and the fuel system pressurize. I tested the ECU as well, but the one issue I have with the ECU is that initially when I jumpered the diagnostic wires the CEL stayed on. After I tested some of the other items I went back to the ECU and I received the following error codes: 6; 10; 20. After testing the wiring harness I hooked the battery up and tested the ECU one more time, now I am getting the error code 19. I think the ECU might just be shot. Other note is that the ignition switch can be a bit sticky at times.

I do not want to start replacing everything and get nowhere, but my plan right now is to start with the ECU and main relay.

Am I on the right track or is there something else I should do? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Stephen

I had same problem Honda Said hay lets put the ignition coil in distributor. It goes bad replace it have a honda certified dealer though not any where else I did ran one day and only one day

fozzbo · Oct 17, 2007, 12:58 PM

New distributor in... and nothing! Bleh! Now focusing on main relay and ECU.

Does the main relay control the injectors?

Z-Mann · Oct 17, 2007, 01:03 PM

Did you replace the factory coil with any thing other than factory. My civic is on a diagnostic at a Honda seller.

fozzbo · Oct 17, 2007, 02:17 PM

I put in a new distributor purchased from Ebay. Cranks (and sparks) but no attempt to start at all.

fozzbo · Oct 29, 2007, 04:49 PM

Update:

Spark - yes
Injector signal - 1 & 2 do not fire, 3 & 4 at the same time - all the time. For obvious reasons 3 & 4 fouling.
Distributor - off Ebay - new/rebuilt. I suspect the old one is fine.
Lined to distributor spot #1/timing mark at TDC of #1.

ECU/ECM? Best place to get one if so?

Help!

-fozzbo

PS - used relay off Ebay was a dud.. would not even run fuel pump 2 seconds.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 29, 2007, 05:30 PM

I don't believe the ECM is the problem. I would still focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and distributor. AutoZone can test the ICM and coil for free. We've had many problems on this site with remanufactured/used distributor housings. I recommend only using a new genuine Honda housing and reusing your old ICM and coil, if necessary. Aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine.