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    Farmerslindsay's Avatar
    Farmerslindsay Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 12, 2008, 08:14 AM
    Shower P trap not under drain
    Hi,

    I am attempting to install a shower stall into my basement where there is a roughin. I have hit a few problems in that the roughin drain is inly 1 1/2 inch line not a 2" which the stall drain calls for and also the drain is in the wrong place.
    I have cut the floor to move the drain to the required place but I can't get at the 1 1/2 inch line befor the p-trap to extend 2 feet to the right spot and have the p-trap directly below the shower drain. I have two questions.
    1) Is the 1 1/2 inch drain sufficient (it is vented) and if so can I just use a fitting to take it up to a 2" line to fit the shower drain?

    2) Can I use 4 -45 degree elbows (or would 2 90's be OK) to reroute the drain over the 2 feet and leave the P-trap where it is so that it will not be located directly below the shower drain?


    Thanks
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Jan 12, 2008, 04:22 PM
    You can use a reducer to go from the 2" shower drain to the 1.5" drain line, it should be Ok for a shower stall. Avoid using 90s whenever possible, go with the 45s.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #3

    Jan 13, 2008, 08:08 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ballengerb1
    You can use a reducer to go from the 2" shower drain to the 1.5" drain line, it should be Ok for a shower stall. Avoid using 90s whenever possible, go with the 45s.
    And if you do reduce it, try to do so vertically coming directly out of the shower drain body before the trap, placing the reducer on the horizontal will create a clog point.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #4

    Jan 13, 2008, 08:24 AM
    Let me see if I understand your question... First, just so you know, all pipes underground should be 2" minimum (except for tub stub underground)...so I am wondering if there is 2" pipe somewhere close to where the 1.5 inch pipe ended.. I am assuming was roughed in for a tub... so betting you if you chop a little more concrete away you will find full size 2" pipe...but you never know...? Huh..? OK...if this is not the case, as much as I do not like it..you can certainly increase from 1.5 inch pipe to 2" pipe... just do it like IAMGROWLER said... on the vertical out of the trap into shower... this further suggests that you will definetely want to move the trap directly under the shower drain (placing the 2x1.5 inch reducer/increaser on the vertical just prior to entering shower strainer)... make sure the increaser does not enter into the strainer assembly... would be hard if not impossible to install the strainer. Again.. not ideal, but will get you up and running... :) I am still hoping you can find that darn 2" pipe just a few inches in back of that 1.5 inch pipe... let us all know what you find... :)... AND as Ballengerb1 said.....use 45's only...

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    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #5

    Jan 13, 2008, 11:06 AM
    45s in a drain allow the water to scour the pipe, 90s let the water slam into the turn. How long ago was that rough in done in your home and what state do you live.
    Farmerslindsay's Avatar
    Farmerslindsay Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 13, 2008, 05:00 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ballengerb1
    45s in a drain allow the water to scour the pipe, 90s let the water slam into the turn. How long ago was that rough in done in your home and what state do you live.?
    Thanks for the info on the 45 vs 90's.
    My house was built in 1986 and I am in Ontario Canada. I guess that the 1 1/2 inch must have met the codes here back then but I do not think it does now.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #7

    Jan 14, 2008, 09:50 AM
    Not sure when the code changed so it is very possible that you met the code at the time of construction. TYou do not have to bring your home up to code just because the code has changed. However in your situation, if you need a permit to do this install, the inspector may require you to bring it up to current code.

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