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    Dr1757's Avatar
    Dr1757 Posts: 186, Reputation: 25
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Feb 2, 2008, 05:57 PM
    MDF for built in book case
    I am about to construct a built in book case in a new addition to my house. I have never used MDF before, and would like to know if there are any pitfalls using this stuff for shelves etc.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Feb 3, 2008, 09:06 PM
    The biggest pitfall is the stuff will bow over time. It's great for several applications but shelving isn't one of them.
    Dr1757's Avatar
    Dr1757 Posts: 186, Reputation: 25
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    #3

    Feb 4, 2008, 12:36 AM
    Thanks I appreciate the comment
    jack dandy's Avatar
    jack dandy Posts: 226, Reputation: 9
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    #4

    Feb 4, 2008, 07:49 AM
    I did a built in, in my sons bedroom and used Oak a little more expensive but looks great and will not bow as talked of by ballenger, another advantage of oak it should last a lifetime. Good Luck!
    GLEIGHVAH's Avatar
    GLEIGHVAH Posts: 29, Reputation: 4
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    #5

    Feb 4, 2008, 11:22 AM
    You Can Can Give Mdf Rigidity By Running A 1x2 Oak Pine Or Poplar Across The Face Of The Shelf
    Dr1757's Avatar
    Dr1757 Posts: 186, Reputation: 25
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    #6

    Feb 5, 2008, 05:57 PM
    I have some 1/2" square tubing and could dado a grove in the bottom of the shelf and glass the tube in place where it wouldn't show. What do you guys think about that?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #7

    Feb 5, 2008, 06:05 PM
    Not so much. How thick is the MDF and how long will your shelf be? Take a piece of that tubing and put it between two saw horses and then put a 40 lbs weight in the center, that deflection is what your shelf can still do.
    Dr1757's Avatar
    Dr1757 Posts: 186, Reputation: 25
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    #8

    Feb 6, 2008, 05:48 PM
    MDF is 3/4 and the span is 30 inches. Thanks for the advice, I'll try the saw-horse test before I commit the time and effort of actually building a shelf.
    glavine's Avatar
    glavine Posts: 895, Reputation: 87
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    #9

    Feb 6, 2008, 07:28 PM
    just spaning 30" id use a clear pine or poplar 1x2, make sure you glue and nail it with 1 1/4 brads

    you can always double up the mdf and make it 1 1/2 thick, this will also help.
    as for building cabnits in general we use 3/4 birch or oak and mdf for raised panel doors, but that's when its painted, when staining mdf just want work,

    I can see why you'd want to use mdf anyway its almost 1/2 the cost of the other 4x8 sheets.
    Dr1757's Avatar
    Dr1757 Posts: 186, Reputation: 25
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    #10

    Feb 7, 2008, 04:43 PM
    Thanks Glavine, I like your suggestion. The last time I built cabinets I used Red Oak but when I priced it this time it's priced out of my market. 3/4 MDF is $21.40 a sheet here so if I can make it work it will be great. Unfortunately Pine is over priced and the quality of the wood is terrible.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #11

    Feb 7, 2008, 06:33 PM
    Both Glavine and Gleighvah are using good approaches. Clear pine isn't too bad if you rip it yourself. I have bought pre-cut 1x2 oak strips at Menards lumber for under $1 per foot. Pricey but you may only need 3 or 4 pieces and they look good.
    GLEIGHVAH's Avatar
    GLEIGHVAH Posts: 29, Reputation: 4
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    #12

    Feb 10, 2008, 01:47 PM
    just use mdf for the skeleton and face frame it with poplar 1x2[/B]
    glavine's Avatar
    glavine Posts: 895, Reputation: 87
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    #13

    Feb 10, 2008, 05:12 PM
    Its important to use a solid wood for the frame so you can mount doors and drawer hardware, mdf doesn't hold screws well
    Dr1757's Avatar
    Dr1757 Posts: 186, Reputation: 25
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    #14

    Feb 11, 2008, 10:45 AM
    I want to thank everyone that responded to my question, I received many good suggestions and now I'm ready to proceed

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